Glossary

appliqué

Needlework technique in which pieces of fabric are sewn or pasted onto a textile to form a pattern.

batik

Resist technique in which wax is applied to cloth prior to dyeing to create a pattern. The wax prevents the dye from penetrating the cloth.

block-printing

Printing technique that uses wooden or metal blocks to apply a pattern to cloth, either by printing a resist (such as wax or a flour-based paste) on the fabric prior to dyeing, or by applying dye directly to the fabric.

buttonhole stitch

Looped stitch used for securing buttonholes or for edging cloth.

chain-stitch embroidery

Needlework technique that uses looped stitches in the shape of a chain.

cross-stitch embroidery

Needlework technique in which two stitches are crossed to form an X.

dip-dye

Technique in which cloth is immersed in a solution to color it.

gluework

Technique in which gold leaf is added to cloth with a sticky substance, usually fish glue.

geringsing

Double-ikat cloth woven in Tenganan, east Bali, that is used in ceremonies throughout the island. For double-ikat cloths, both the warp and weft threads are patterned in the ikat technique.

ikat

Resist-dye process in which small bundles of warp or weft threads are tied to create a pattern prior to dyeing and weaving. After the first round of dye, the resist ties are removed and new ones are added for each subsequent color. After dyeing is completed, all resists are cut away, and the yarn is ready to be woven.

openwork

Technique in which a pattern is created by partly pulling together the foundation weave.

patola

Indian silk cloth patterned with double ikat that was an important trade cloth in Southeast Asia. The Gujarati name for the textile is patolu (plural, patola).

plain weave

Basic weave structure in which the warp and weft cross over one and under one in a regular sequence; also referred to as tabby weave.

plangi

Resist-dye process in which small areas of cloth are tied off with string or palm strip to keep the dye from penetrating the fabric.

resist dye

Technique in which yarn or cloth is patterned by covering areas prior to dyeing.

selvedge

The two longitudinal edges of a fabric where the weft thread creates a loop as it changes directions.

sungkit

Supplementary-weft wrapping technique used by Iban weavers.

supplementary warp or weft

Decorative weaving technique in which patterned yarn is added to the foundation weave.

tapestry weave

Weave with weft threads of different colors that do not pass from selvedge to selvedge but are carried back and forth, interweaving with sections of the warp to create an image or pattern.

tie-dye

Technique in which areas of yarn or cloth are tied with cord or string prior to dyeing, as in ikat, plangi, and tritik. See also resist dye.

tritik

Resist process in which designs are created by sewing and gathering a textile prior to dyeing.

warp

The threads that run longitudinally on a loom or in woven fabric, parallel to the selvedge. The warp is placed on the loom first, and then the weft threads are interwoven through the warp.

weft

The threads that are interwoven through the warp threads on a loom or in a woven fabric.